Newborough - Athena Wreck - Ynys Llanddwyn (8.22km)

It’s been a whole month since my last big walk. A combination of sleep deprivation, being back at work, and finally being able to leave Cymru and visit family elsewhere. Today’s walk is one of the most popular locations on Ynys Môn. I tend to avoid the place as it’s usually so busy, but there really is good reason for it’s popularity. You get everything here; beautiful woodland, sandy beaches with views over the mountains, a windswept island with a romantic story and plenty of history. Couple that with easy parking and toilets, and it’s a real winner. Today I had both genod with me, Megan (4yrs old) walking and Anwen (13 months) in the carrier.

I have done most of this walk before in various sections. I’ve spent many an hour on the hugely popular, and often busy Traeth Llanddwyn “Tra eeth Tlann thooinn” (th as in “thanks” for traeth, dd like the th in “this” in Llanddwyn) including an incident during a friend’s birthday party where we had the fire brigade called on us (we were having a bbq. We gave the firemen a sausage each and they were fine!). I had ridden on parts of the much quieter, but equally lovely Traeth Penrhos “Tra eeth Pen ross” , but never walked. This is probably due to the fact that it was known as a nudist beach during my childhood so I stayed clear. A very quick search tells me that it is, indeed, a location popular with naturists! If there were any there today, they were very discreet!

Distance: 8.22km (according to the OS map app)

Time taken: 3hrs 20mins

Total ascent: 174.44m (OS Map app)

Parking: Yes- a big, barriered car park by the beach. Pay on the way out. Card accepted.

Facilities: Yes, toilets and ice cream van.

1. To park, follow signs from the middle of the village of Niwbwrch “New boor ch” , turning off the main street opposite the Post Office and Premier shop. Follow this narrow, windy road until you get to the barriers. You don’t pay for parking on entry so you just pass through the barriers and follow the road down. It’s worth noting here though that you are charged for the length of time you park- £2 for the first 2 hours, 40p for every additional 20 mins, and £7 maximum charge per day. You pay to pass through the barriers on the way out, cards are accepted if you don’t have change. Follow the road right to the bottom and you will find the car park adjacent to the beach. There is a well maintained toilet block, and food vans in a picnic area.

We start our walk at the carved statues. There’s loads of information here about many of the different routes that can be taken in the area. As you face the beach, we turn right, head past the bollards and into the forest.

Start at the carvings.

Pass the bollards onto the forest track.

We follow a big, wide track through this first section of forest and walk parallel to the beach. Other paths go off to the right but we ignore them today.

Easy walking on the forest road.

Megan prefers a more challenging surface.

Smiles.

Looking through the trees towards the beach and Ynys Llanddwyn.

Looking into the forest.

Newborough and the forest

The people of Newborough originally came from the village of Llanfaes, which unfortunately happened to be the site that Edward I chose to build Beaumaris Castle. As a result, the inhabitants of the village were all evicted at the end of the 13th century and re-housed in the ‘New- borough’ at the opposite end of the island, where it became a prosperous town surrounded by rich farmland.

However, in the 14th century a series of violent storms buried a large portion of this area under sand dunes. To stop the advance of the dunes, marram grass was planted and soon provided raw material for a new industry in the town, the weaving of the marram grass leaves to form mats and baskets. Rabbits colonised the dunes, giving the area the name Newborough Warren.

This corner of the island was famous, even before Edward I created Newborough, because it was the site of one of the royal palaces, or llysoedd, of the Princes of Gwynedd at Llys Rhosyr.

In order to further protect the village from shifting dunes, which often covered the area in a blanket of sand, the Forestry Commission planted the present day forest, consisting mainly of Corsican Pine, soon after the Second World War, and this quickly became a popular amenity in addition to the beach and Warren.

The forest has become famous for both its raven roost, which has been estimated to number 800-1200 during summer, and for the successful re-introduction of the red squirrel.

There really isn’t much to say about this section, it’s easy to walk and easy to follow. Eventually the road veers to the left and you get to a small car park with a picnic bench, where the views open out onto the beach.

Open views.

2. On past visits this is where I normally cut down to the beach, but today I wanted to head further along so I continued on the path parallel to the beach. It’s pretty straightforward to follow, with a few ups and downs through the dunes.

Following the path.

Forest and beach.

Chance to do some jumping.

Smiling in the forest.

Looking out to Traeth Penrhos.

Dunes.

Once we get beyond Ynys Llanddwyn, everything opens up and the path becomes more sandy, so it’s at this point I decided it was easier to cut through to the top of the beach. Traeth Penrhos doesn’t have the dramatic views of Eryri “Ehr urgh ee” (Snowdonia) but it’s a beautiful, peaceful beach and much quieter than its neighbour.

Traeth Penrhos.

3. Part way along the beach is what had drawn me over in this direction in the first place.

The wreck of the Athena

The Athena was a wooden brig built in 1840. At time of loss on 20 December 1852, the vessel was owned by R & G Benn and registered at Candia (Heraklion, Greece). It was carrying a cargo of beans from Alexandria to Liverpool when it became stranded on Malltraeth Sands, 1 mile north of Llanddwyn. Because of the stormy conditions, the Llanddwyn lifeboat Palmer was pulled by a team of horses over the Newborough sand dunes so that it could be launched nearer to the wreck. 14 crewmembers were subsequently rescued. Part of the cargo (much damaged) was recovered, as well as sails and other materials (not the anchors and chains) before the wreck broke up.

“Full details from North Wales Chronicle, 24 December 1852:

MALLTRAETH.-SHIPWRECK, From a Correspondent. The Greek brigantine Athena, Capt. George H. Colscundi, of 309 tons burden, loaded with beans, and bound from Alexandria to Liverpool, was stranded early on Monday morning, the 20th instant [20 December 1852], in Trefdraeth bay, between Llanddwyn and Bodowen Point, in Carnarvon bay. The crew, 14 in number, all Greeks, except one Livernese, were seen from there, soon after daylight, waving their caps and making other signs for aid, while the sea was breaking in fearful waves over the ill-fated vessel, and no boat could live in the terrific sea off Llanddwyn Point. The pilots at the light-house brought the life-boat at last round the southern side of the rocks, and across the narrow neck which joins this diminutive peninsula to the mainland, and by the aid of the surrounding inhabitants, launched it nearly opposite the stranded brig. The crew were all rescued, but with few of their effects, except what they had on at the time, and hospitably treated at the pilots' cottages. In the evening, 12 of them (leaving the captain and one seaman to look after the wreck) were conveyed to Carnarvon, and on the following morning forwarded to Liverpool. The vessel appears to be old, and very slightly built, breaking up rapidly. The cargo of beans strews the shore for more than a mile, and the neighbouring peasantry are collecting it in heaps near the tent erected by the pilot watchmen. The sea has been less agitated since the wreck, and hopes are now entertained that the rigging and sails will be saved, unless it returns again to blow from the S.W.
From the captain's papers (who cannot speak a single English word) it appears that they sailed from Alexandria, on the 27th Sept., and had therefore been 83 days on the voyage.”

There really isn’t much left of the Athena, only a small part of the hull poking out of the sand, but it’s still an interesting little spot to visit.

Wreck of the Athena.

Child for scale.

Wreck of the Athena.

I have no idea what’s going on with her face here. She was probably whinging about something!

After spending a little bit of time at the wreck we turned to the sea and back on ourselves towards Ynys Llanddwyn. It was at this point Megan decided she was afraid of the sea and had a sulk because she got wet. Megan, up to this point, has always been an absolute pleasure to take places. However, we do seem to have hit a very whiny phase at the moment. Let’s hope she gets over it quickly!

Ynys Llanddwyn with Eryri behind.

It’s worth noting here that access to Ynys Llanddwyn is somewhat dependent on the tide, so make sure you check before you make the trip. At the highest tides the island is completely cut off for about 2 hours. Today, the tide was far enough out that we were able to access it down the side of the main island. Along here there are some beautiful rocks. According to the information boards they were formed by lava bubbling out of the sea bed and are some of the oldest rocks on Anglesey.

Little mermaid.

Looking towards Ffynnon Trwyn Y Sais.

Mussels.

We accessed the island through a kissing gate off the beach.

Beautiful gate.

Once through the gate we followed the path along the coast, heading towards the furthest point.

4. On our left we soon spotted the ruins of Dwynwen’s church in the distance. We continued along the path until we had a chance to veer off for a closer look.

Eglwys Dwynwen in the distance.

Beautiful coastline.

Ynys Llanddwyn.

Santes Dwynwen

The island is named for Santes Dwynwen “San tess Dooin wenn”, the Welsh equivalent of Saint Valentine, whose day is celebrated on 25th January. Dwynwen lived during the 5th century in the Brecon Beacons, and legend has it that she was one of the prettiest of King Brychan Brycheiniog’s 24 daughters. According to the story Dwynwen fell in love with a prince called Maelon Dafodrill, but her father had already arranged for her to marry another. In some versions of the story, Dwynwen is raped by Maelon after she tells him that her father will not allow them to marry. Distraught by her love for Maelon, Dwynwen prays she will fall out of love with him.

After falling asleep Dwynwen is visited by an angel, who appears carrying a sweet potion designed to erase all memory of Maelon and turn him into a block of ice. Upon waking, Dwynwen is heartbroken to see Maelon’s frozen form. God takes pity on Dwynwen’s kindness and offers her three wishes; first she wishes that Maelon be thawed, second that God meet the hopes and dreams of true lovers and third that she should never marry. All three are fulfilled and, as a mark of her thanks, Dwynwen devotes herself to God’s service for the rest of her life.

Dwynwen became a nun, fulfilling her wish to never marry. She left for Ynys Môn and built a church, which became known as Llanddwyn, literally meaning “church of Dwynwen”. She lived on the island until her death in 465AD. Dwynwen became known as the patron saint of lovers, and pilgrimages were made to her holy well on the island. It was said that the faithfulness of a lover could be divined through the movements of some eels that lived in the well. This was done by the woman first scattering breadcrumbs on the surface, then laying her handkerchief on the surface. If the eel disturbed it then her lover would be faithful.

Visitors would leave offerings at her shrine, and so popular was this place of pilgrimage that it became the richest in the area during Tudor times. This funded a substantial chapel that was built in the 16th century on the site of Dwynwen’s original chapel. The ruins of this can still be seen today. It’s unusual to see a cruciform church, such as this one, in this region.

Eglwys Llanddwyn.

Stairs that presumably ran up to the rood loft.

Eglwys Llanddwyn.

Tŵr Mawr and Dwynwen’s cross from the church.

Looking back at the church.

After having a look at the church we head back to the main path and head up to Dwynwen’s cross. This 14ft, plain cross was erected in memory of Dwynwen in 1897. The inscriptions, one on each side, read: “Dwynwen”, “in the sixtieth year of Queen Victoria 1897”, “in memory of St Dwynwen Jan 25th 1465” and, “erected by the Hon F G Wynn owner of the isle”.

Dwynwen’s cross with Tŵr Mawr in the background.

Megan at the cross.

Tŵr Mawr from Dwynwen’s cross.

Dwynwen’s cross and Tŵr Mawr.

Dwynwen’s cross.

From here we continue to follow the path towards Tŵr Mawr “Toor Maur”, one of the most iconic images of this area.

5. Once we climb to the top of the small hill where Tŵr Mawr is located, we take some time to enjoy the stunning views and peer in through the windows! Sadly, there isn’t much to see inside.

Tŵr Mawr

The 1873 tower is tapered in a style characteristic of Anglesey windmills. It is 33 feet high and 18 feet in diameter. It may have been constructed by an Anglesey stonemason, and it is possible that the tower itself was originally used as a windmill. The lantern and fittings cost £250 7s 6d, including the adaptation of an earlier tower. The north-east door is flanked by small windows, and two floors above also have small windows, but the top does not. The conical roof is slated and has a flagpole. The present lantern window is about 6 feet 6 inches x 2 feet. The optic, silverplated reflector and Fresnel lens is dated 1861 and were used into the 1970s.

View from Tŵr Mawr.

View of Tŵr Bach from Tŵr Mawr.

After enjoying the view we head back down the hill the way we’ve come, then at the bottom we turn right and head towards Tŵr Bach. To get to Tŵr bach there are a few uneven steps and we have to cross some sort of sea wall. Anything involving heights and narrow paths is unnerving with Megan as she is pretty clumsy!

6. Tŵr Bach itself isn’t much to look at, but again we take the opportunity to enjoy the views.

Tŵr Bach

Tŵr Bach is the older of the two marker beacons at the seaward end of Ynys Llanddwyn. Too small to properly be described as a lighthouse, this conical stone beacon, dating from the early 19th century, was built to help guide shipping - mostly boats transporting slate excavated from the quarries of Snowdonia - into the Menai Straits. In 1846 the larger lighthouse was constructed just across the bay. With a tall tower and the advantage of illumination this more effective marker remained in use until 1975, when it was superseded by directional light placed on the Tŵr Bach beacon.

Crossing to Tŵr Bach.

Tŵr Bach.

Looking back at the pilot cottages.

Beautiful flowers.

We retrace our steps back over the sea wall then head to towards the pilot cottages. I have a personal connection to the cottages as my Great Great Grandfather, John Owen, became a pilot on the Menai Strait following a career as a mariner. This involved working at Llanddwyn on shift duty where he and other pilots helped guide ships into the Straits. He started on the 5th February 1874. His second son, Samuel, was born 4th February 1876 at Llanddwyn, presumably at the cottages. The log book for that month is largely in John Owen’s handwriting and the entry for 3-4 February 1876 shows the 1-4am watch underlined with the remark “John Owen’s child born”. John Owen left the Pilot’s service on 30th November 1876 at the age of 36 years and 1 month. The rules governing the pilot’s employment state they must be younger than 35, which probably obliged him to resign. A story told in the family, however, is that John Owen saw an accident involving the death of a child and as a result decided to give up his mariner career and stay at home with his family.

One of the cottages is now a little museum display showing how it would have looked when the pilots were in residence. Obviously we couldn’t go in, but we did have a peer through the windows. The small cannon that stands outside the cottages was used to summon the lifeboat crew.

Four pilot’s cottages.

Pilot’s cottages.

Behind the cottages. What a view!

After heading up the back of the cottages we follow the path along the coast back off the island. There is a main route which cuts across the middle of the island but we veered to the right and followed the coastline. There were a few ups and downs but it’s pretty easy walking. I didn’t take many more pictures from this point as my phone was running out of battery and I wanted to make sure we got the route.

Celtic cross with Tŵr Mawr, Plain cross, and Dwynwen’s church in the background.

The Celtic Cross that we pass near the church was erected at the start of the 20th century by F G Wynn, the owner of the island and the same person who erected the plain cross. The inscriptions read “they lie around did living tread, this sacred ground now silent - dead”. Apparently F G Wynn erected this cross to commemorate Eglwys Llanddwyn which was ruined and overgrown at the time.

7. Once we get off the island it’s a simple task of following Traeth Llanddwyn back to the car park. It can be a little tricky to spot the entrance among the dunes, but you can usually see where most people are coming on and off the beach. There is a boardwalk viewing platform at the entrance but despite being cleared regularly it does often get covered in sand! I would have taken a picture but my phone had given up the ghost by this point.